Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and travelers alike celebrating its exquisite cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, Unesco honored it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – including it in a prestigious group of world cities and kindling hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this status, it enters a worldwide network of more than four hundred metropolises across over 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a driver of sustainable urban development".
The accolade "demonstrates its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and dynamic gastronomic culture," as noted by a official from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to earn a spot in this prestigious list of 70 global destinations internationally.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The recognition for this venerable city is little surprise to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many agree with the sentiment that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO recognition, this cherished, bustling, and vibrant city – the capital of India's biggest state – is finally in the global gaze for what has always shaped its soul: an immense passion for food.
"'The day's menu, how will it be cooked' is a ongoing conversation from waking up until night in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the excellence of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its succulent kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were conceived, perfected, and elevated to extraordinary levels in their opulent kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of gastronomic creativity, merging Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the galouti kebab was devised to cater to an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks ground the meat with papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid tightly closed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Besides the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only highlights seasonal produce but also offers the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Nearly on every corner, there are small establishments and stalls – little-known gems that are extremely favored by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, huge crowds start gathering from 5 am at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in kulhads, along with fluffy buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a unpretentious joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also presents unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The process of making it is precise and involved. The vendor whisks the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing frothy texture.
On crisp mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however express concern that their children are unwilling to master the art.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy places it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – influenced by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is believed, will motivate more people around the world to learn these narratives and experience the city to delight in the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
