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Whenever assembling a list of London’s finest eateries, one might expect renowned high-end names. Yet, situated prominently among these gastronomic giants is a modest salonu situated in a distant area of northern London.

A Unexpected Honour

This little Turkish eatery, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the 4th best restaurant in the city by a respected gastronomic guide. This accolade has left the proprietors utterly shocked.

“I am completely astonished,” states a family member, referring to his family’s hard graft that led to their modest restaurant achieving such a high spot on a respected 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

The compact space, which was a simple cafe before its change into a popular spot, has kept much of its former character. It seats just more than 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking show, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky spot,” says the owner.

The Namesake Creation: Tantuni

However, it’s all down to the food, and this restaurant definitely delivers. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a succulent consistency.

It is then thrown into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. As the meaty mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to take in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is rolled tightly inside.

It is often eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a strong slap of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The respected food critic called this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, imparting it a more intense, more aromatic and more balanced flavour.

Outranking the Giants

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place stuffed for below £25, comparable experiences at top-tier establishments can start at many times that price.

A Philosophy of Warmth

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I do not subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is friendliness, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is shared by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he was in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London come to this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of excess, and to show what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Journey of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not work at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am really happy of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants require years to become successful, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its success is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum was extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a social life but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these duties forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

A Accomplishment for the Culture

The restaurant’s recognition is bound to echo outside its own doors. “In my opinion many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the wider importance of this gastronomic triumph.